If one day, I should ever become Queen/Ruler of the world (hey, who knows!) I think I will wear Prabal Gurung to work. I’m pretty sure that if you are wearing leather body armour and you’re dressed for war not that many people are going to challenge what you say. That is the vibe that I got from his Autumn/ Winter collection at least. The contrast between silky, soft luxury and leather harnesses, military structure and brass buttons made Beyonce’s ever relevant song ‘Who run the world girls, GIRLS’ go through my head on repeat.
It’s nice to see such a strong military theme back on the runway in colour, cut and accessories giving a whole new meaning to power dressing, (don’t dress as if you can run a business, dress as if you can run an army). There are leather and buckles featured from head to toe, literally. As well as body harnesses there are leg harnesses (which personally bring back not so fond memories of knee braces from my knee dislocation, but that’s just me!) and shoes that look like weapons. Nevertheless, for all the intimidating hardware and power dressing this collection features, there is always an emphasis on the feminine shape with peplums in the jackets, the harnesses emphasising the waists of the model or the thigh high splits in the gowns. Thus Gurung’s objective is clear “I wanted to look at the idea of the empowerment of women”
Throughout theres is a mix of hard and soft e.g. leather vs fur or silk, light vs dark, structure of leather body harnessing vs the billowing movement of a silk gown. Therefore I see this collection as embracing both sides of the femme, power vs elegance. As Gurung states: “I always feel the biggest tool women have is their femininity, it doesn’t have to be all about physical strength. I wanted to show both sides.”